Climbing Cheats – Mechanical Edition

Alright, they’re not cheats; none of these tips involve strapping a hidden motor to your bike and quietly whizzing your way to the top…

But they are a set of directions that will make climbing feel like cheating compared to how much you struggled before.


Suspension

Is your shock set up like it should be? No, I don’t mean just flicking the lockout switch – although if you’re not using this and struggling to climb, it should be the first thing you change! You don’t have to be the world’s best home mechanic or a tech wizard to set up a shock; google your frame manufacturer’s advised setting for that shock (and if that isn’t an option, revert it to the ‘factory’ option). It’s just turning dials and setting pressures so there’s no harm in repeatedly adjusting things until they feel right. Rule of thumb is that the more air in the shock the stiffer it is, but that doesn’t mean whack it up to max pressure and leave it there; it won’t be good for the shock and will completely obliterate ride quality. The better option is to make sure you’re factoring your riding weight into shock calculations and fit an appropriate spring / pump it to a suitable pressure. This means taking your water bottles, backpack, pads, tools, helmet etc into account and setting you shock and fork weights based off of this number. Bear in mind that for really rocky, technical climbs a bit of inefficiency is a fair trade for grip, so sometimes it’s better not to lock out the suspension and keep traction as you’re scrabbling over roots and rocks. In this case, having a shock set to your weight is essential in making sure that traction is there without needless pedal-bob wasting your energy.

Drivetrain

Is your drivetrain working how it should? You don’t need to spend thousands upgrading to XTR DI2, but is everything free moving and efficiently? There’s a reason the top road racers are riding ceramic bearings on immaculate, perfectly-aligned drivetrains. Mountain bikes get dirty; even when the trails aren’t muddy there’s inevitable dust which gets everywhere and builds up. Ensuring that yor drivetrain remains as free from this as possible keeps it running much easier – jockey wheels are a prime area for grime build up. If you find during cleaning that the teeth are mashed, it could be time to upgrade to a metal counterpart, giving you the option for easier pedalling and a shiny new anodised addition to your build! Use a suitable lubricant on the chain to make sure everything is as slick as possible; WD40 is great for shifting rust but not as a consistent lubricant, so make sure you have some dedicated chain lube in stock. Ensure that your gears are as crisp as possible by using the twist adjustment on the shifter itself because a poorly-functioning drivetrain costs energy, speed, and money as things wear out at a faster rate than necessary. Fitting an oval chainring, designed to get more power with additional consistency out of each rotation, could be a worthwhile upgrade but is one of the more expensive options on the list.

Bearings

It’s worth noting that it’s not just your drivetrain which needs maintaining. Check your pedal bearings, as a stiff pedal (especially if you have adjustable resistance) can make a massive difference, as does a notchy bottom bracket affecting the perceived consistency of pedal strokes. Likewise, wheels with notchy bearings not only ruin the feel of the trail, but could actually be slowing you down; get that buttery smooth new-bike feel and you might just find that new-bike enthusiasm emerges.

Wheels and Tyres

Upgrading from 26” to 29” might be a bit extreme (and impossible, on most frames) but getting tyre choice and pressure perfected can make climbing a breeze. Step one is making sure the wheels are as true as possible, as a buckled wheel is throwing your energy all over the track. Similarly, make sure tyres are seated properly and relatively ‘straight’ because you’d be amazed how many wheels look buckled because the tyre isn’t a straight fit; the more linear your contact points with the trail are, the more efficiently your energy is transferred through them. Tyre choice is completely personal preference, and an expensive pursuit if you keep trying different configurations without success. If climbing is your issue, consider two questions: are your tyres set for the conditions, and how much rolling resistance is there? If you’re trying to sprint up cross country climbs on a 2.5” super tacky wet tyre when the ground is just a bit damp, you’re carrying a lot of weight and throwing a lot of unnecessary rubber down. I’m not saying to fit up some gravel-esque slicks, but consider if a marginally narrower tyre with a tread that has less resistance could do the same job. If changing tyres aren’t a choice, consider the pressures. Too low, and that same issue of dragging an inordinate amount of rubber over the ground slows you down. Too high and the wheels will spin quickly, but offer no grip on the climbs. Again, this is personal preference but it could be worth experimenting by adding 3-5 additional PSI, testing it on the trail, and adjusting it accordingly.

Saddle

Are you sitting comfortably? Everyone knows the tiptoe-test for seat height, but have you considered the position of your seat in relation to the rear wheel? If you find yourself struggling for grip when things get steep, consider moving your seat; most will have two lines signalling the amount of available adjustment. Not only is this upgrade easy, it’s completely free! If sliding the seat on your existing post doesn’t do the job, consider a layback post which automatically pushes the saddle roughly an inch over the back of the seat tube, putting your seated weight over the rear wheel. However, the trade-off here is that you’re most efficient when directly over the pedals so there has to be a balance between being able to leverage your weight when pedalling, and keeping the rear wheel planted; nobody wants an ideal riding position that goes to waste as the wheel skids inefficiently over the ground rather than thrusting you forwards, but there’s also a reason that ‘cool’ laid-back chopper look never caught on in the Tour De France! If you’re feeling flush, dropper posts are a brilliant, but expensive, option for getting seat height perfect by allowing you to adjust on the fly so that no momentum is lost between differing terrain.

Finishing Kit

So obvious it goes without saying; if you’re uncomfortable, you won’t perform at your best. Make sure your contact points with the bike are as good as possible. If you’re using flat pedals, are the pins long enough and are you in receptive footwear which grips these pins effectively. If you’re maxed out on flats, consider the clip-in option as a means of transferring as much of your power through the pedals. Without going into a lecture on ergonomics, make sure your grips are in a comfortable position. As a cost-saving exercise, starting by simply adjusting the angle of your bars is the best bet, bringing in the option of cutting them down or buying a wider / different rise set later on. It’s worth considering width as a slightly wider bar (whilst still remaining comfortable) opens up your chest and makes breathing, particularly on the heaviest of uphill sections, that bit easier than if you’re shoulders are slumped forwards gripping narrow bars. Similarly, whilst a stem’s length influences handling agility, the rise of the stem can help keep you comfortable. Finally, makes sure you’ve got a comfortable grip with some give because the majority of us squeeze the bars, bracing our upper body when really putting the power down through the pedals. The softer the grips, the more comfortable this often-involuntary response to climbing becomes as you are left to focus on building up lactic acid in your legs rather than through an unnecessary death grip on the bars.

Try these tips and let me know how you get on. Best case scenario: you gain climbing abilities that you never knew you had from some relatively cheap and time-effective pointers. Worst case: you’re still not as quick as you’d hoped on the climbs, but your bike is mechanically spot-on with all aspects dialled in exactly how you want them, with maybe a few new shiny bits too!

Shimano XT Di2 11-Speed Drivetrain RRP £1599.99 (With Brakes)

The future is here! Digitally tuneable shifting customisable to individual preference that avoids issues of conventional cable-gearing.

However, the infamous Jurassic Park quote “Your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn’t stop to think if they should” could be applied just as easily to Shimano’s tech team. Not because of rampaging dinosaurs (although this will take a healthy bite out of your bank account) but because it simply seems like unnecessary faff; without name-dropping, I’ve ridden 1-by-9, 10, 11 and 12 speed drivetrains and never have I wished that I could tune my shifter to how I ride. Similarly, conventional cable shifting has never seemed an issue; yes, a cable can stretch or get caught, but the Di2 system still has wires which risk damage. However, it’s come on a bike I bought so I don’t have to shoulder the hefty initial price tag, reviewing it from a fairly ambivalent standpoint.

Does it shift seamlessly? Absolutely. The lever has the reassuring feel of a conventional cable system, and the bleep when you max out at either end of the range is a bonus – I suspect top flight riders (or decent mathematicians) among us don’t need a buzzer to let them know, but I found it really handy. The LCD readout is cool, in a retro 1980s-watch kind of way, and I see massive potential for where this could be going with tracking systems etc running off of a single battery. Similarly, the battery is brilliant – tucked away in the steerer and holding charge for a loooong time - I can’t envisage a scenario where it will run out. Tuning-wise I largely left it alone, although there are android and phone apps for the tech-savvy among us to fettle away with it. This, I sense, is the real selling point for the Di2. For those of us chasing that extra decimal point (and most people in between) the concept of a gearing system tuneable to you is attractive, providing a trailside talking point and potential racing edge. However, despite being quite easily dismountable (the wires are simply pushed into the main unit) I suspect many owners will ‘set and forget’ rendering it, like most top-end shocks, a fairly futile purchase when subjected to this method of use.

I’m not one to mince words when it comes to whether something is worth its price tag, and in my opinion the XT Di2 system is competitive, but I wont be rushing out to equip it on any new bike. It’s a trailside talking point, but I didn’t feel that I was gaining anything over a traditional system. Is it effective? Absolutely. Equipped as standard on a new build, I wouldn’t hesitate, and I can’t imagine the XTR feeling significantly better in any other category except weight, which is high praise! However, were I running a traditional (fully functioning) system in any of the now numerous one-by options… I’d think twice. 

Signs of wear – when’s it economical to repair?

Keep it together - or it might end up looking like this!

For those of us riding bikes on a budget, sometimes we push the limits of ‘fair use’ as we eek every penny’s worth out of each component. However, when does this become a false economy, or just plain dangerous? Here’s a short list of things to look out for – most of which should be obvious to an experienced rider!

Spongy Brakes – Not feeling like they used to? Are you pulling the lever closer to the bars every ride? Changing your reach adjustment only works for so long, so it’s time to give them a bleed! Having brakes you can’t rely on is plain dangerous, and the last thing you want is to run them to the point where you find out the stopping power’s gone – just as you’re halfway down a technical descent! Fluid and syringes are cheap as chips, or take it to your local bike shop and get them feeling good as new. Chuck some pads in there too if yours have worn thin – for roundabout £8 an end for peace of mind.

Worn Tyres – Not ripping the berms like you thought you were? (Well, until you watched the footage back anyway!) Time for some new tyres. Technically, thinner rubber means more puncture susceptibility, but we’re talking skinny margins there. More importantly, lacking confidence in your tyres takes your mind off the job at hand. Don’t be silly, wrap your wheelies. Get your grip back, and consider the compounds you’re using too for longevity. If you’re riding on roads to get to the trails, a super tacky soft compound isn’t going to last long. Similarly, slicks in the wet are a terrible idea – pinch pennies by fitting them yourself, not by using unbranded tyres which have a much shorter life.

Worn Grips – They’re one of your main contact points with the bike, and comfort = speed and enjoyment. Everyone has their preferences here, and if you haven’t found yours yet, keep looking! For small hands ‘skinny’ grips might be the way forward (but have a shorter life expectancy than their full-bodied brothers). Some people like a soft grip, others a bristly grip pad. Go to your local bike shop and have a look. This is also one of the easiest ways to tidy up your bike’s aesthetic – new grips and lock rings look much better than worn out grips and scraped bar ends. Also, if you’re missing bar ends there’s a safety aspect; there’s a reason you can’t enter a race with them missing. The choice of colours lets you go ‘custom’ on a budget too!

Pedals – Like grips, they’re pretty essential; riding would be hard work without them. If your bearings are rough (i.e. the pedals aren’t spinning as freely as they once were) you’re wasting valuable muscle-power pedalling for it never to reach the wheels. Some brands have adjustable resistance here, so have a fiddle and check that that’s not the reason before parting with any cash. Similarly, some pedals are designed with re-greasing in mind – a concept which is gradually dying out with ever more efficient bearings, but worth checking if you’ve got an older set of pedals. Fear not if none of these are a fix; if the pedals were expensive when new, there’s a good chance upgraded axle’s / bearings are available, with many brands offering ceramic / ti upgrade options if you’re feeling bling! If it’s slipping on the pedals that’s a problem, check to see how many pins are left; if they’re worn down most brands offer replacement pins so you can have fresh-out-the-factory grip. Some pedals have pins that allow you extra adjustment if spacers are removed (but don’t unscrew pins so they’re left hanging in by half a turn or anything silly – they’ll be knocked off in no time and ruin the thread so they can’t be replaced). If pins are ripped out and the holes ruined, it may be time for a new pedal, however.

Bearings – Creaky noises where there shouldn’t be any? It’s distracting and ruins the ‘feel’ of the trail. There’s a good chance it’s bearings, but this doesn’t have to be an expensive fix. Try to isolate the problem – is it a wheel spinning causing vibrations through the bars? Headset bearings making turning feel rough / wobbly? Or frame bearings squeaking when under pressure? If you’ve got a ball bearing headset, take it out very carefully (as the balls are apt to drop out and roll everywhere) and regrease it. If it’s still rough new bearings are needed, but this should reduce noise / vibration short term. Some frames have grease ports / greasable bearings, although most modern bikes use sealed bearings. Honestly, it’s best to take this to a bike shop – it can be done at home but you risk damaging your hubs / frame by not using the correct presses. HOWEVER, it need not be expensive – most brands sell individual bearings / small sets so you need not buy the entire set for one rough bearing. If you’re savvy, find the exact bearing dimensions (probably from the bike manual / an online description of the manufacturer’s bearing kit) and find the same bearing much cheaper on a non-bike specific bearing retailer. This can literally quarter the cost of what a bearing would cost you from a manufacturer, and allows you to buy bearings individually if necessary. However, they’re best treated as a service item; if one or more bearings is rough, it makes sense to get the rest replaced while the bike’s up on the stand.

Gear Adjustment – If you’re not getting your gears like you used to, or skipping gears, it’s time to check adjustment. Often this can be adjusted from both the bars and the derailleur itself, with small turns of a plastic lug or by tensioning the cable more with an allen key. Don’t wait on this one – skipping gears not only makes climbing a nightmare, gears that suddenly skip when you get on the pedals can throw you over the bars. Plus, a poorly functioning system is ruinous for your drivetrain. If you sleep on it, you might end up buying a new chain, cassette etc for an issue that could’ve been solved with a new cable, or a little adjustment.

Wheels - It's not just the bearings that matter, check your spoke tensions. Any loose spokes should be tightened (bearing in mind that the effect of tightening one spoke can affect the entire wheel) and any bent spokes should be swapped out. Check your rims for any cracks or dents while you're at it - not only will these risk giving you flats (especially if you run tubeless) but they can lead to a catastrophic failure. And that's going to be a new wheel and a fresh scar at least - if it's the rear wheel we could be talking derailleur hangers and mechs too.