Climbing Cheats – Mechanical Edition

Alright, they’re not cheats; none of these tips involve strapping a hidden motor to your bike and quietly whizzing your way to the top…

But they are a set of directions that will make climbing feel like cheating compared to how much you struggled before.


Suspension

Is your shock set up like it should be? No, I don’t mean just flicking the lockout switch – although if you’re not using this and struggling to climb, it should be the first thing you change! You don’t have to be the world’s best home mechanic or a tech wizard to set up a shock; google your frame manufacturer’s advised setting for that shock (and if that isn’t an option, revert it to the ‘factory’ option). It’s just turning dials and setting pressures so there’s no harm in repeatedly adjusting things until they feel right. Rule of thumb is that the more air in the shock the stiffer it is, but that doesn’t mean whack it up to max pressure and leave it there; it won’t be good for the shock and will completely obliterate ride quality. The better option is to make sure you’re factoring your riding weight into shock calculations and fit an appropriate spring / pump it to a suitable pressure. This means taking your water bottles, backpack, pads, tools, helmet etc into account and setting you shock and fork weights based off of this number. Bear in mind that for really rocky, technical climbs a bit of inefficiency is a fair trade for grip, so sometimes it’s better not to lock out the suspension and keep traction as you’re scrabbling over roots and rocks. In this case, having a shock set to your weight is essential in making sure that traction is there without needless pedal-bob wasting your energy.

Drivetrain

Is your drivetrain working how it should? You don’t need to spend thousands upgrading to XTR DI2, but is everything free moving and efficiently? There’s a reason the top road racers are riding ceramic bearings on immaculate, perfectly-aligned drivetrains. Mountain bikes get dirty; even when the trails aren’t muddy there’s inevitable dust which gets everywhere and builds up. Ensuring that yor drivetrain remains as free from this as possible keeps it running much easier – jockey wheels are a prime area for grime build up. If you find during cleaning that the teeth are mashed, it could be time to upgrade to a metal counterpart, giving you the option for easier pedalling and a shiny new anodised addition to your build! Use a suitable lubricant on the chain to make sure everything is as slick as possible; WD40 is great for shifting rust but not as a consistent lubricant, so make sure you have some dedicated chain lube in stock. Ensure that your gears are as crisp as possible by using the twist adjustment on the shifter itself because a poorly-functioning drivetrain costs energy, speed, and money as things wear out at a faster rate than necessary. Fitting an oval chainring, designed to get more power with additional consistency out of each rotation, could be a worthwhile upgrade but is one of the more expensive options on the list.

Bearings

It’s worth noting that it’s not just your drivetrain which needs maintaining. Check your pedal bearings, as a stiff pedal (especially if you have adjustable resistance) can make a massive difference, as does a notchy bottom bracket affecting the perceived consistency of pedal strokes. Likewise, wheels with notchy bearings not only ruin the feel of the trail, but could actually be slowing you down; get that buttery smooth new-bike feel and you might just find that new-bike enthusiasm emerges.

Wheels and Tyres

Upgrading from 26” to 29” might be a bit extreme (and impossible, on most frames) but getting tyre choice and pressure perfected can make climbing a breeze. Step one is making sure the wheels are as true as possible, as a buckled wheel is throwing your energy all over the track. Similarly, make sure tyres are seated properly and relatively ‘straight’ because you’d be amazed how many wheels look buckled because the tyre isn’t a straight fit; the more linear your contact points with the trail are, the more efficiently your energy is transferred through them. Tyre choice is completely personal preference, and an expensive pursuit if you keep trying different configurations without success. If climbing is your issue, consider two questions: are your tyres set for the conditions, and how much rolling resistance is there? If you’re trying to sprint up cross country climbs on a 2.5” super tacky wet tyre when the ground is just a bit damp, you’re carrying a lot of weight and throwing a lot of unnecessary rubber down. I’m not saying to fit up some gravel-esque slicks, but consider if a marginally narrower tyre with a tread that has less resistance could do the same job. If changing tyres aren’t a choice, consider the pressures. Too low, and that same issue of dragging an inordinate amount of rubber over the ground slows you down. Too high and the wheels will spin quickly, but offer no grip on the climbs. Again, this is personal preference but it could be worth experimenting by adding 3-5 additional PSI, testing it on the trail, and adjusting it accordingly.

Saddle

Are you sitting comfortably? Everyone knows the tiptoe-test for seat height, but have you considered the position of your seat in relation to the rear wheel? If you find yourself struggling for grip when things get steep, consider moving your seat; most will have two lines signalling the amount of available adjustment. Not only is this upgrade easy, it’s completely free! If sliding the seat on your existing post doesn’t do the job, consider a layback post which automatically pushes the saddle roughly an inch over the back of the seat tube, putting your seated weight over the rear wheel. However, the trade-off here is that you’re most efficient when directly over the pedals so there has to be a balance between being able to leverage your weight when pedalling, and keeping the rear wheel planted; nobody wants an ideal riding position that goes to waste as the wheel skids inefficiently over the ground rather than thrusting you forwards, but there’s also a reason that ‘cool’ laid-back chopper look never caught on in the Tour De France! If you’re feeling flush, dropper posts are a brilliant, but expensive, option for getting seat height perfect by allowing you to adjust on the fly so that no momentum is lost between differing terrain.

Finishing Kit

So obvious it goes without saying; if you’re uncomfortable, you won’t perform at your best. Make sure your contact points with the bike are as good as possible. If you’re using flat pedals, are the pins long enough and are you in receptive footwear which grips these pins effectively. If you’re maxed out on flats, consider the clip-in option as a means of transferring as much of your power through the pedals. Without going into a lecture on ergonomics, make sure your grips are in a comfortable position. As a cost-saving exercise, starting by simply adjusting the angle of your bars is the best bet, bringing in the option of cutting them down or buying a wider / different rise set later on. It’s worth considering width as a slightly wider bar (whilst still remaining comfortable) opens up your chest and makes breathing, particularly on the heaviest of uphill sections, that bit easier than if you’re shoulders are slumped forwards gripping narrow bars. Similarly, whilst a stem’s length influences handling agility, the rise of the stem can help keep you comfortable. Finally, makes sure you’ve got a comfortable grip with some give because the majority of us squeeze the bars, bracing our upper body when really putting the power down through the pedals. The softer the grips, the more comfortable this often-involuntary response to climbing becomes as you are left to focus on building up lactic acid in your legs rather than through an unnecessary death grip on the bars.

Try these tips and let me know how you get on. Best case scenario: you gain climbing abilities that you never knew you had from some relatively cheap and time-effective pointers. Worst case: you’re still not as quick as you’d hoped on the climbs, but your bike is mechanically spot-on with all aspects dialled in exactly how you want them, with maybe a few new shiny bits too!

Giant Reign Carbon 2017 (£Various)

Two years old now, this is one of many carbon enduro machines flooding the second hand market. With a lineage back to 2015, there’s some pedigree in this frame – Giant’s flagship enduro bike has faced little change in four years, a feat almost unheard of in these uncertain times!

I should add that mine’s a completely custom build, so I’m reviewing the frame as I experienced it with two differing shocks; the Vivid RC2 coil and Monarch RC3 (Vorsprung tuned) that I replaced it with.

Visually; the frame looks good. The lines are clean, the rear triangle being metallic means it’s easily replaced, and I did a full bearing change at home with relative ease. The paint finish is slightly disappointing; there’s significant lacquer peel, rubbed decals and chips which aren’t often found on bikes within this price range. The odd mark’s to be expected, but there is a sense that Giant are making these by the thousands, not crafting each one. Yes, I know that’s how they’re made (as indeed most brands are) but this Reign is the first bike (especially at this price range) that I’ve experienced with a ‘cheap’ feel to its visual finish.

More importantly, though, how does it ride? In a word: excellent. There’s a snappy feel coming out of corners and over jumps that could trick you into thinking you’re riding a shorter travel bike. Compared to the mega I’ve raved about before, there’s a more ‘upright’ feel that encourages pedalling; there’s not a sense of holding on and ploughing the track, more of a playful feel that has you popping off small rocks and lips. When things do get serious, however, it still reigns supreme as it soaks up the hits and remains unfazed by steep terrain. There is a more ‘forward’ feel to the riding position (which could be tweaked with different stems etc) but not an uncomfortable one. Put simply, rather than hanging off the back wheel and trying to plough the terrain, there was a sense of the reign pushing you forward into the driver’s seat to find the best lines. It never felt like I was heading out of the front door, but it keeps you honest when things get steep and rough.

I found it to be a comparable whippet on the climbs, a feat aided massively by switching from the Vivid RC2 to a Monarch. As should be the case with bikes in this class, there’s little sense of energy being wasted through pedal bob – each sweaty stroke rotates a wheel. Sitting atop the bike, and not too far over the rear wheel, keeps traction on the steep climbs and never poses an issue when you point it downward. As a predominantly ‘dh’ rider who likes to pedal too, this feels like a brilliant companion – tuned for the descents but light (and efficient) enough to really make up ground on the climbs too. And for some extra good news, Giant is, well, giant in the UK; a huge range of UK retailers stock replacement parts for absolutely any eventuality.

So… a verdict. This isn’t the rave review the 2015 Mega received, but it is coming from a position of more experience, of higher expectations, of a higher price range. On the one hand the Giant is a great companion that supports you on the descents and compliments you on the climbs. On the other, it’s an expensive frameset that somehow manages to feel cheap – a carbon front end and metal rear triangle at a price point competing with full-carbon offerings. In short, it’s a machine I’d deter nobody from buying because it’s fast, comfortable, and easily maintained. However, in a class stacked with outstanding machines, this remains merely adequate. I own one, I ride one quite happily, but I’d have no qualms about exchanging it for something else. Perhaps it's simply too efficient; it’s a bike that takes serious abuse and (thanks to its paint finish) has the scars to prove it, but it stoically remains a tool, rather than my pride and joy.

Shimano XT Di2 11-Speed Drivetrain RRP £1599.99 (With Brakes)

The future is here! Digitally tuneable shifting customisable to individual preference that avoids issues of conventional cable-gearing.

However, the infamous Jurassic Park quote “Your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn’t stop to think if they should” could be applied just as easily to Shimano’s tech team. Not because of rampaging dinosaurs (although this will take a healthy bite out of your bank account) but because it simply seems like unnecessary faff; without name-dropping, I’ve ridden 1-by-9, 10, 11 and 12 speed drivetrains and never have I wished that I could tune my shifter to how I ride. Similarly, conventional cable shifting has never seemed an issue; yes, a cable can stretch or get caught, but the Di2 system still has wires which risk damage. However, it’s come on a bike I bought so I don’t have to shoulder the hefty initial price tag, reviewing it from a fairly ambivalent standpoint.

Does it shift seamlessly? Absolutely. The lever has the reassuring feel of a conventional cable system, and the bleep when you max out at either end of the range is a bonus – I suspect top flight riders (or decent mathematicians) among us don’t need a buzzer to let them know, but I found it really handy. The LCD readout is cool, in a retro 1980s-watch kind of way, and I see massive potential for where this could be going with tracking systems etc running off of a single battery. Similarly, the battery is brilliant – tucked away in the steerer and holding charge for a loooong time - I can’t envisage a scenario where it will run out. Tuning-wise I largely left it alone, although there are android and phone apps for the tech-savvy among us to fettle away with it. This, I sense, is the real selling point for the Di2. For those of us chasing that extra decimal point (and most people in between) the concept of a gearing system tuneable to you is attractive, providing a trailside talking point and potential racing edge. However, despite being quite easily dismountable (the wires are simply pushed into the main unit) I suspect many owners will ‘set and forget’ rendering it, like most top-end shocks, a fairly futile purchase when subjected to this method of use.

I’m not one to mince words when it comes to whether something is worth its price tag, and in my opinion the XT Di2 system is competitive, but I wont be rushing out to equip it on any new bike. It’s a trailside talking point, but I didn’t feel that I was gaining anything over a traditional system. Is it effective? Absolutely. Equipped as standard on a new build, I wouldn’t hesitate, and I can’t imagine the XTR feeling significantly better in any other category except weight, which is high praise! However, were I running a traditional (fully functioning) system in any of the now numerous one-by options… I’d think twice. 

Falling out of love with the sport?

Something always comes up…but this is the tenth week in a row, you’re in a slump. Mates are talking about *insert lesser hobby here* and you’re wondering if you ought to sell the bike, free up some cash, and go to work guaranteed that your shins and elbows will be scratch-free.

STOP RIGHT THERE

You’ve got to sort it out – get on the bike and rekindle your love for riding. Here’re a few reasons / solutions I’ve thought of, and I’d be interested to hear what you think in the comments!

Money:

You seem to be spending a constant trickle of cash on your bike (or perhaps it’s a torrent!) and you can’t justify it – not to yourself, your other half, or your depleting savings account. How do you sort it?

·      Consider local rides – You needn’t spend a lot of money on fuel, parking or uplift passes. Find somewhere local and (if you’re a Dh rider) be prepared to push. It’ll have the nostalgic feel of when you first got into riding, probably before you had a car and had to ride/push everywhere anyway. Rather than a sweaty uplift bus, you get to take in the woods and chill out – stop for a breather and a drink on the way up, nobody is timing you!

·      Reduce ride-to-ride costs – Sounds like a simple one, but most of us do the ride/lunch/pub (usually in that order!) routine, and the food and drinks can rack up a serious bill. Instead of buying a burger or sandwich trailside, take a packed lunch and bottle of drink from home. There’s no need to be embarrassed; persuade your buddies that Sam Hill starts each ride with a packet of Quavers and you’ll be golden. Have people back to yours for drinks, rather than the pub – Being thrifty doesn’t mean not being sociable! (I should put a little disclaimer here: I know many trail centres rely on food and drink sales to build and maintain the tracks we love, so by no means am I discouraging supporting that – just trying to get more people out there enjoying the trails if money is a serious issue.)

·      Assess the Essentials – No, I don’t mean hold off on buying those brake pads, or swapping for a cheap helmet. I mean think about what’s actually essential to riding. All too often we get caught up in the marketing hype surrounding mtb, and forget that it’s more important to ride than it is to have the best gear. If you have to free up money, why not take a downgrade on spec for a bike which is still good enough to let you ride your local trails, and reliable enough to not need the constant (and potentially expensive) maintenance that top-flight machines might require. Yes, it’ll feel weird at first, but if you find yourself laughing your way down the trails and looking at an upgrade a couple of months down the line, it was worth reigniting the spark. Similarly, if you need to free up cash it’s a great way of keeping a hand in the hobby without risking your whole arm.

Nobody to ride with:

You used to ride with them all the time, most weekends and some weeknights too. But now they struggle to get out once a month, and you don’t like the thought of going alone…

·      Join a Facebook (or similar) local group. Just typing in a few keywords should get you what you’re looking for; a bunch of like-minded enthusiasts like you, all looking forward to their next ride. Obviously the usual ‘stranger danger’ rules apply – make sure you’re not showing off expensive gear to people you don’t know, or meeting people for the first time alone. But, the negative warning aside, it’s brilliant – not only do you meet those in the group, but you meet more people out on the trails with them too.

·      Find someone who hasn’t had a go at the sport for a while, and get them out on a bike. You might even try your other half! It’s a win-win; if they love it, you’ve got a new riding partner. If they don’t enjoy it, you’ve got a ride in and had the chance to meet new people on the trails. Compared to the other sports I’ve been involved in, mountain bikers are hands down the friendliest group I’ve encountered – there’s a sense that everyone is out to have fun, not compete.

·      Book an uplift – I’d never advise riding alone because of the safety aspect, but with an uplift you’ve reduced that risk; riders should be hitting the trails (and finishing them) at a regular time. Get to know people on the lift, set off in the middle of a pack, and have a great time!

Struggling to keep up with the sport:

Whether it’s injuries, or just not taking the physical demands of steering a machine down rough terrain as well as you once did, this can have a massive impact on how much you’re enjoying your ride.

·      Injuries – If you’re worried about missing work, or just sick of aches and pains, there’re a few solutions to this.

1.     Take out sports insurance – It might cost a couple of extra pounds a month, but can give you peace of mind when you find the right broker / policy.

2.     Warm up / Warm down – If your warm up is putting on your shoes, and your warm down is sipping a pint, this could be the solution to your niggles. A quick warm up gets you ready for action, while an effective warm down makes that drive home much more comfortable, and will make a massive difference the next day. I won’t outline specific routines here – a quick online search will give you all the info you need. Hey – the pros do it, so you might even feel a little performance boost!

3.     Consider your protection – If you’ve got it all, you can ignore this bit. If not, consider how knee / shin / elbow pads will help with scrapes. A good helmet goes without saying, but goggles are handy too. If you’re really worried, padded undershorts and vests are available. Also, an often overlooked safety feature is good footwear; not only does a good pair of shoes offer support for your foot, reducing pain from the pedal, but some of them offer thick rubber soles for additional protection against rock strikes etc.

Something else always comes up:

This is by far the hardest one to try and solve, as we all lead vastly different lives so will have a diverse range of distractions (of varying importance). Loosely, I’d have to say force yourself to have one morning / afternoon out – even if it’s just grabbing a few hours after work in the light. If you come back buzzing, you know you’ve got to go back for more! Try and book at least one four-hour chunk off a month (whether it’s a weekend, weekday, or evening blast) and stick to it. You have to question whether, if you love your hobby, how important the other stuff is to get in your way. The biggest one is work; if you’re working an extra couple of hours for your kids, pay off a mortgage or any other big commitment, I respect that. If not, you’ve got to weigh up whether those few extra pounds are worth missing something you truly enjoy – in ten years’ time you wont remember that Saturday you worked three hours’ overtime, but you will remember the good times you had out on the bike!