Signs of wear – when’s it economical to repair?

Keep it together - or it might end up looking like this!

For those of us riding bikes on a budget, sometimes we push the limits of ‘fair use’ as we eek every penny’s worth out of each component. However, when does this become a false economy, or just plain dangerous? Here’s a short list of things to look out for – most of which should be obvious to an experienced rider!

Spongy Brakes – Not feeling like they used to? Are you pulling the lever closer to the bars every ride? Changing your reach adjustment only works for so long, so it’s time to give them a bleed! Having brakes you can’t rely on is plain dangerous, and the last thing you want is to run them to the point where you find out the stopping power’s gone – just as you’re halfway down a technical descent! Fluid and syringes are cheap as chips, or take it to your local bike shop and get them feeling good as new. Chuck some pads in there too if yours have worn thin – for roundabout £8 an end for peace of mind.

Worn Tyres – Not ripping the berms like you thought you were? (Well, until you watched the footage back anyway!) Time for some new tyres. Technically, thinner rubber means more puncture susceptibility, but we’re talking skinny margins there. More importantly, lacking confidence in your tyres takes your mind off the job at hand. Don’t be silly, wrap your wheelies. Get your grip back, and consider the compounds you’re using too for longevity. If you’re riding on roads to get to the trails, a super tacky soft compound isn’t going to last long. Similarly, slicks in the wet are a terrible idea – pinch pennies by fitting them yourself, not by using unbranded tyres which have a much shorter life.

Worn Grips – They’re one of your main contact points with the bike, and comfort = speed and enjoyment. Everyone has their preferences here, and if you haven’t found yours yet, keep looking! For small hands ‘skinny’ grips might be the way forward (but have a shorter life expectancy than their full-bodied brothers). Some people like a soft grip, others a bristly grip pad. Go to your local bike shop and have a look. This is also one of the easiest ways to tidy up your bike’s aesthetic – new grips and lock rings look much better than worn out grips and scraped bar ends. Also, if you’re missing bar ends there’s a safety aspect; there’s a reason you can’t enter a race with them missing. The choice of colours lets you go ‘custom’ on a budget too!

Pedals – Like grips, they’re pretty essential; riding would be hard work without them. If your bearings are rough (i.e. the pedals aren’t spinning as freely as they once were) you’re wasting valuable muscle-power pedalling for it never to reach the wheels. Some brands have adjustable resistance here, so have a fiddle and check that that’s not the reason before parting with any cash. Similarly, some pedals are designed with re-greasing in mind – a concept which is gradually dying out with ever more efficient bearings, but worth checking if you’ve got an older set of pedals. Fear not if none of these are a fix; if the pedals were expensive when new, there’s a good chance upgraded axle’s / bearings are available, with many brands offering ceramic / ti upgrade options if you’re feeling bling! If it’s slipping on the pedals that’s a problem, check to see how many pins are left; if they’re worn down most brands offer replacement pins so you can have fresh-out-the-factory grip. Some pedals have pins that allow you extra adjustment if spacers are removed (but don’t unscrew pins so they’re left hanging in by half a turn or anything silly – they’ll be knocked off in no time and ruin the thread so they can’t be replaced). If pins are ripped out and the holes ruined, it may be time for a new pedal, however.

Bearings – Creaky noises where there shouldn’t be any? It’s distracting and ruins the ‘feel’ of the trail. There’s a good chance it’s bearings, but this doesn’t have to be an expensive fix. Try to isolate the problem – is it a wheel spinning causing vibrations through the bars? Headset bearings making turning feel rough / wobbly? Or frame bearings squeaking when under pressure? If you’ve got a ball bearing headset, take it out very carefully (as the balls are apt to drop out and roll everywhere) and regrease it. If it’s still rough new bearings are needed, but this should reduce noise / vibration short term. Some frames have grease ports / greasable bearings, although most modern bikes use sealed bearings. Honestly, it’s best to take this to a bike shop – it can be done at home but you risk damaging your hubs / frame by not using the correct presses. HOWEVER, it need not be expensive – most brands sell individual bearings / small sets so you need not buy the entire set for one rough bearing. If you’re savvy, find the exact bearing dimensions (probably from the bike manual / an online description of the manufacturer’s bearing kit) and find the same bearing much cheaper on a non-bike specific bearing retailer. This can literally quarter the cost of what a bearing would cost you from a manufacturer, and allows you to buy bearings individually if necessary. However, they’re best treated as a service item; if one or more bearings is rough, it makes sense to get the rest replaced while the bike’s up on the stand.

Gear Adjustment – If you’re not getting your gears like you used to, or skipping gears, it’s time to check adjustment. Often this can be adjusted from both the bars and the derailleur itself, with small turns of a plastic lug or by tensioning the cable more with an allen key. Don’t wait on this one – skipping gears not only makes climbing a nightmare, gears that suddenly skip when you get on the pedals can throw you over the bars. Plus, a poorly functioning system is ruinous for your drivetrain. If you sleep on it, you might end up buying a new chain, cassette etc for an issue that could’ve been solved with a new cable, or a little adjustment.

Wheels - It's not just the bearings that matter, check your spoke tensions. Any loose spokes should be tightened (bearing in mind that the effect of tightening one spoke can affect the entire wheel) and any bent spokes should be swapped out. Check your rims for any cracks or dents while you're at it - not only will these risk giving you flats (especially if you run tubeless) but they can lead to a catastrophic failure. And that's going to be a new wheel and a fresh scar at least - if it's the rear wheel we could be talking derailleur hangers and mechs too.