Signs of wear – when’s it economical to repair?

Keep it together - or it might end up looking like this!

For those of us riding bikes on a budget, sometimes we push the limits of ‘fair use’ as we eek every penny’s worth out of each component. However, when does this become a false economy, or just plain dangerous? Here’s a short list of things to look out for – most of which should be obvious to an experienced rider!

Spongy Brakes – Not feeling like they used to? Are you pulling the lever closer to the bars every ride? Changing your reach adjustment only works for so long, so it’s time to give them a bleed! Having brakes you can’t rely on is plain dangerous, and the last thing you want is to run them to the point where you find out the stopping power’s gone – just as you’re halfway down a technical descent! Fluid and syringes are cheap as chips, or take it to your local bike shop and get them feeling good as new. Chuck some pads in there too if yours have worn thin – for roundabout £8 an end for peace of mind.

Worn Tyres – Not ripping the berms like you thought you were? (Well, until you watched the footage back anyway!) Time for some new tyres. Technically, thinner rubber means more puncture susceptibility, but we’re talking skinny margins there. More importantly, lacking confidence in your tyres takes your mind off the job at hand. Don’t be silly, wrap your wheelies. Get your grip back, and consider the compounds you’re using too for longevity. If you’re riding on roads to get to the trails, a super tacky soft compound isn’t going to last long. Similarly, slicks in the wet are a terrible idea – pinch pennies by fitting them yourself, not by using unbranded tyres which have a much shorter life.

Worn Grips – They’re one of your main contact points with the bike, and comfort = speed and enjoyment. Everyone has their preferences here, and if you haven’t found yours yet, keep looking! For small hands ‘skinny’ grips might be the way forward (but have a shorter life expectancy than their full-bodied brothers). Some people like a soft grip, others a bristly grip pad. Go to your local bike shop and have a look. This is also one of the easiest ways to tidy up your bike’s aesthetic – new grips and lock rings look much better than worn out grips and scraped bar ends. Also, if you’re missing bar ends there’s a safety aspect; there’s a reason you can’t enter a race with them missing. The choice of colours lets you go ‘custom’ on a budget too!

Pedals – Like grips, they’re pretty essential; riding would be hard work without them. If your bearings are rough (i.e. the pedals aren’t spinning as freely as they once were) you’re wasting valuable muscle-power pedalling for it never to reach the wheels. Some brands have adjustable resistance here, so have a fiddle and check that that’s not the reason before parting with any cash. Similarly, some pedals are designed with re-greasing in mind – a concept which is gradually dying out with ever more efficient bearings, but worth checking if you’ve got an older set of pedals. Fear not if none of these are a fix; if the pedals were expensive when new, there’s a good chance upgraded axle’s / bearings are available, with many brands offering ceramic / ti upgrade options if you’re feeling bling! If it’s slipping on the pedals that’s a problem, check to see how many pins are left; if they’re worn down most brands offer replacement pins so you can have fresh-out-the-factory grip. Some pedals have pins that allow you extra adjustment if spacers are removed (but don’t unscrew pins so they’re left hanging in by half a turn or anything silly – they’ll be knocked off in no time and ruin the thread so they can’t be replaced). If pins are ripped out and the holes ruined, it may be time for a new pedal, however.

Bearings – Creaky noises where there shouldn’t be any? It’s distracting and ruins the ‘feel’ of the trail. There’s a good chance it’s bearings, but this doesn’t have to be an expensive fix. Try to isolate the problem – is it a wheel spinning causing vibrations through the bars? Headset bearings making turning feel rough / wobbly? Or frame bearings squeaking when under pressure? If you’ve got a ball bearing headset, take it out very carefully (as the balls are apt to drop out and roll everywhere) and regrease it. If it’s still rough new bearings are needed, but this should reduce noise / vibration short term. Some frames have grease ports / greasable bearings, although most modern bikes use sealed bearings. Honestly, it’s best to take this to a bike shop – it can be done at home but you risk damaging your hubs / frame by not using the correct presses. HOWEVER, it need not be expensive – most brands sell individual bearings / small sets so you need not buy the entire set for one rough bearing. If you’re savvy, find the exact bearing dimensions (probably from the bike manual / an online description of the manufacturer’s bearing kit) and find the same bearing much cheaper on a non-bike specific bearing retailer. This can literally quarter the cost of what a bearing would cost you from a manufacturer, and allows you to buy bearings individually if necessary. However, they’re best treated as a service item; if one or more bearings is rough, it makes sense to get the rest replaced while the bike’s up on the stand.

Gear Adjustment – If you’re not getting your gears like you used to, or skipping gears, it’s time to check adjustment. Often this can be adjusted from both the bars and the derailleur itself, with small turns of a plastic lug or by tensioning the cable more with an allen key. Don’t wait on this one – skipping gears not only makes climbing a nightmare, gears that suddenly skip when you get on the pedals can throw you over the bars. Plus, a poorly functioning system is ruinous for your drivetrain. If you sleep on it, you might end up buying a new chain, cassette etc for an issue that could’ve been solved with a new cable, or a little adjustment.

Wheels - It's not just the bearings that matter, check your spoke tensions. Any loose spokes should be tightened (bearing in mind that the effect of tightening one spoke can affect the entire wheel) and any bent spokes should be swapped out. Check your rims for any cracks or dents while you're at it - not only will these risk giving you flats (especially if you run tubeless) but they can lead to a catastrophic failure. And that's going to be a new wheel and a fresh scar at least - if it's the rear wheel we could be talking derailleur hangers and mechs too. 

Used Bike Benefits - Santa Cruz v10

For the average rider, is it possible to own the bike you've lusted after on the world cup circuit without sponsors? If you also like food and clothes like me, that could be tricky... Despite brands like YT and Canyon trying to narrow the gap between reliability, top spec and cost, for most people the thousands you'd expect to spend on a brand new bike just aren't justifiable for the level of riding they do. 

However, waiting and buying a good used bike can be the solution to this. Somebody has already taken the brunt of the depreciation (expect a bike to be worth less than 2/3 of what you paid brand new within a year) yet the bike is still shiny enough to impress your mates and new enough to not have pesky mechanical issues. Also, for the majority of us, there's little need to have the absolute top specification for the level of riding we do - one or two years old will certainly suffice, particularly if you're upgrading from a much older bike. By no means am I criticising those who go out and buy new - if you can afford it and it puts a massive smile on your face, go for it! I'm merely giving hope to those of us who religiously read the articles knowing full well that we'll never afford it.

I, for instance, have wanted to own a Santa Cruz V10 since I first got into bikes - from the old all-metal models to the current carbon monsters racing world cups. However, the high prices meant I couldn't even consider a new (or used) one, despite me watching Ratboy and Minaar enviously most weekends. There was something about it that seemed to me to be the pinnacle of downhill mountain bikes; I'm sure we all picture a different bike we've lusted after at this point, but the reality is the same - it's a dream because it's too damn expensive to be a reality! However, with used bikes a couple of years old coming up for reasonable money, it got me thinking... Could I own my dream bike if I'm willing to own a 26" wheeled, used model? 

With that in mind, I took the plunge and bought a 2014 Santa Cruz V10 at well under one quarter of the price a similar spec current model would cost. As with most bikes over two years old, it's a shape behind and 26" in a world of 650b dominance. However, I justified the purchase on two assumptions; that 26" is fast enough for me and great fun on the local tracks (I'm not chasing 0.10 of a second every weekend at the BDS), and also that 26" wheel sets and tyres are gradually becoming cheaper with the rise of 650b dh bikes. The newer frame might be shinier and lighter, but I don't think it'd be the difference between 1st and 15th place at a weekend meet for me - I'd much rather have some money left for actually riding the bike on uplift days than blow everything on a sweet bike I can't use. Warranty is the biggest selling point on a new frame; Santa Cruz offer lifetime warranty on their frames to their original owner, and myself (as the third owner) would not be entitled to anything if the frame fails. However, at the price I bought this bike I could feasibly (were I ever to have had the money for a brand new v10) bought a brand new frame as a replacement if this breaks - and still have change left over. And, like most big brands, the UK distributer of Santa Cruz stock a large array of spares which means (unless we're talking a snap on the front or rear triangle) there're a backlog of parts to keep you rolling. I'm using Santa Cruz as an example, but with pretty much any brand I can think of this rule applies - there will be a big distributer within the country stocking frame spares. Interested in what saving I was making, a bit of research showed me that I could buy two current model v10's (used) and still have change compared to the RRP of a brand new one - suggesting that even if there was a failure within the frame (scour google, they're pretty rare on bikes nowadays, especially reputable brands like Santa Cruz!) a whole other replacement bike is still cheaper than buying new. 

The negatives I could find applied to all used bikes - there're always a token few marks and battle scars. I was willing to look on these as adding a bit of personality to the frame, and they also mean there's no disappointment when you look the bike over after that first inevitable crash - that scuff was there when you bought it, wasn't it?! Luckily, the previous owner had serviced the forks and shock, but this is a potentially expensive pursuit if they haven't had one for a while / have had an abusive life before your kind hands (and is always worth pricing up when looking at a bike with no service history). 

The main positive is money, and what this opens up for you as a rider. Yes, you can use it to enter local races and uplift days (or something entirely unrelated to mtb). It also means you can update certain parts of the bike to components which are either personal preference, or upgrades. Mine got m820 brakes, derailleur and shifter for a ridiculously low price, plus new grips and pedals which made it feel like a new bike. The previous owner had got the suspension dialled in (and I was very fortunate that they were almost exactly my weight) and it was ready to ride from purchase. The upgrades I made were choice, I rode the bike as standard and upgraded from the xt brakes due to wanting more power, and while the zee gearing worked admirably, it was simply a matter of buying the saint brakes and gearing at a reduced price as a bundle. I could've got an even cheaper bike if I wanted to go older / lower spec, but I wanted this to be an upgrade and a 'dream build' on a budget, if such a thing exists. I'd argue with anyone over a drink that this can be a reality, if you're willing to be patient and shrewd when you buy used parts. 

Has it made me faster? Arguably - I haven't had enough time yet to see whether it's leapt my riding forwards. It won't transform me into a different rider, and I won't be grabbing world cup podiums just because I'm riding a bike I like. It has massively increased my confidence though, and I'd argue that this will translate into speed later on. Would having the top spec current model made a more measurable improvement? I, like most casual riders, know I'm not at the level where the yearly progressions in technology are necessary for me to have a good time riding, so probably not. The milliseconds snatched here and there with bigger wheels and slightly more intelligent frame design are soon lost on an over-braking and under-talented amateur like myself. Does it make me happy? Definitely! I enjoy riding it, I enjoy maintaining it, and I enjoy owning it. It's the bike I've always wanted and, like meeting any great partner, I willingly overlook any minor flaws because I find it so damn gorgeous. 

Rockguardz Protection

RRP £35 (Depending on model)

Pictured is the 2016 guard, but I fitted  2015 guard to my own bike. It's a simple addition which could save an awful lot of heartache (and money) later. A quick google search shows you what this lightweight product can do, and I'd sooner strap £35 to the underside of my bike than throw away a frame.

The rock guard has a good looking carbon finish and wraps around the downtube of your bike (mine even had a small flange to cover part of the BB). It's designed to save you from rock strikes and other troublesome trail features known for killing frames. It's not inconspicuous, but it doesn't detract from how the bike looks either, with a sleek design and attractive carbon finish (which no doubt you could paint, if colour coding is your thing).

It's a doddle to fit - simply place the guard in hot water to make it slightly more malleable, fit it to your bike and let it cool. No glue or tools involved, and you can fit it in the time it takes you make a coffee with that leftover boiling water! Although I didn't find the fit particularly tight, there's not enough room for significant movement. Occasionally I do fiddle with the placement, but that's more of an OCD aesthetic thing - it's always doing its job.

The service from Rockguardz is great - it arrived within two days in lots of padding and with two complimentary stickers.

I'll be checking for a Rockguardz protector for every bike I buy from now on. There're only a limited amount of models (as each guard is bike-specific) but most brands and models are covered!

SDG I-Beam Seat Post (and Saddle)

Seatpost RRP: £64.99
Saddle RRP: (Various) circa £50-£90

What are the benefits to a single bolt seat post with an all carbon saddle? The product reviewer in me wants to discuss how easy the single bolt system is to adjust (no faffing with multiple pieces like traditional seat posts). But I'll move straight on to how cool it looks! There's something pretty space age about the way this saddle's appearance, while the amazing range of colours, styles and padding give it brilliant versatility. 220g for a 27.2 seatpost is crazy light, and would make most people think twice about buying carbon. Especially when this is for a 400mm length (which the majority of us would cut down). If carbon is your thing, SDG have you covered here too with an identical post in carbon for £90.

Downsides? It's pretty pricey, but the ibeam design has been around for over 7 years now, so finding reduced old stock / second hand items is pretty easy. SDG aren't the only brand to cotton onto this design, with Raceface and Deity a mere sample of other brands offering similar options. Theres a certain amount of flex in the saddle, but I wouldn't label it comfy - more of a crumple zone for when things go wrong. For the short stints spent sat on a dh bike it's ideal, but if you're thinking of putting it on an xc whippet, I'd go for the white/black colour scheme because you're going to be walking away from that bike like Pingu.

Durability is good - SDG keep the seat post pretty plain with a small logo at the top, so there're no external decals or paintwork to wear through repeated raising / lowering of the post. The black finish stays looking good for a long time. The saddles are brilliant; I didn't have any rips or tears and they held the colour well. I did ride in the snow and snap a saddle though. Carbon rail digging into thighs isn't a great feeling, but I think taking the bike from a warm house to sub-zero temperatures made it brittle, and my own foolishness was to blame for this injury. Day-to-day the saddles have been brilliant, with no issues whatsoever except this one catastrophic failure (most likely due to my catastrophic stupidity).

The saddle/post combo looks great and is crazy light. Replica 'carbon style' saddles might tempt you, but pay big-brand prices and enjoy the reliability. Whether it's great build quality or the fact there's very little material, but these saddles seem to last forever and are a solid investment.

Shimano Saint MX80 Flat Pedal

RRP: £59.99

I've been using saint mx80 flat pedals on two of my bikes now; my downhill rig and my Nukeproof Mega enduro bike.

Positives:
-Reasonable price
-Understated looks. If you're already running saint (particularly cranks) the understated grey/black/gold looks great, and there're no tacky bright colours to fade over time.
-The 9 pins are easy to remove. The pedals come with washers for you to choose your amount of grip, although removing these (if you always want them in the long setting) is a bit of a faff.
-Aesthetic finish is durable. The upside to grey is that it can't really fade with use, and the black elements in the pedal hold their colour well.

Negatives:
-Weight - 494g is pretty chunky for a pedal. Particularly as there's no Ti axel upgrade to make them lighter, the standard ball bearings are all you can get.
-Looks (I know, I listed it as a positive too!) If you're looking for a stunning set of pedals, these aren't for you. There's no DMR-style 'pimp my pedals' kit, or shiny anodising in an assortment of colours. What you see is what you get.
-Relatively small platform surface for those of us with big feet. If you're size 12 like me, they do feel like standing on a lego after a long day's ride. Certainly better footwear on my part would help, but the narrow platform is also to blame.
-Incredibly 'flat' feeling platform - it feels very much like your foot is resting on top of the pedal instead of moulding to it.

I run them on two bikes, so can't really give these pedals a terrible rep - they perform admirably each week. However, I get the impression that there're better sets out there - I'm not upset enough about the weight to spend double what these cost on Ti-Axelled dream pedals, but extra weight on a bike is never a bonus either. The bearings on one (of four) pedals have failed, but it's hard to get too upset considering they've stood up to over a year of abuse (I'm not shy of clipping the odd tree root or entire rock garden!).

Overall, they're not pedals to be sniffed at - they look at home on pretty much any build and do the job. However, if you've got some money spare and really want to treat yourself (or add a pop of colour to your ride) there're more cost effective options out there. I've got 2 new sets of pedals in to test over the next month, so will put a comparison out there then!

2015 Nukeproof Mega Am Pro Review

Considering I was moving down from a 2014 Pulse, the most noticeable thing about the Mega was the effortless speed it carries over obstacles and open sections; the weight that many reviewers have mentioned seems unnoticeable. Personally, I love the look of the Mega and the reassuring feel of its bulk on the trails - it's certainly no xc whippet, but the confidence it inspires on the downhill sections more than makes up for this.

Positives:

-Value for money - With Sram's top-of-the-line x01 11 speed transmission there seems to be a gear for every eventuality with seamless shifting.

- Reverb - Although a dropper post seems to have become a must-have for all enduro bikes, the reverb has still transformed the bike, allowing you to go from a climb into attacking a downhill section without even pausing.

- Suspension - The amazing reviews for the Pike's speak for themselves and are wholly deserved, while the monarch is a relatively simple shock to set up that provides a brilliant platform.

- Easily available replacement parts - Chainreaction and other sites stock a huge amount of Nukeproof spares which makes any bearing / hanger issues easy (and cheap) to rectify.

-Nukeproof AM wheelset - An absolutely brilliant wheelset which has stood up to much abuse. Bearing replacements are dirt cheap, and their slightly higher weight is a small price to pay for reliable performance. My clumsy riding and heavy weight have taken a toll on them a year in, which is admirable (particularly when I purchased a whole replacement rear wheel for £40 on eBay).

- Confidence inspiring - This really does feel like a lightweight dh bike and has been more than a match for the many UK tracks I have ridden it on. If you're looking to snatch seconds and make podium's, a dh bike is still your best bet, but the agility of the nukeproof is astounding and the only time I wanted more travel was in the most vicious rock gardens.

Negatives:

- Weight - At 31.8lb's, it's a figure that makes some riders anxious. You can easily fettle with the build weight with a few simple changes (like making the tubeless-ready wheels tubeless and getting some carbon bars). 

- Avid Guide Brakes - They didn't seem up to the challenge of stopping my 100 kilos very efficiently. A 203mm ice tech rotor helped this problem up front (180mm standard) but they're still not as effective as I would like. However, the modulation and overall feel of the brakes is good, and they may well be a brilliant choice for lighter riders.

- Nukeproof finishing kit - I don't know whether it's brand snobbery, or performance-based, but I find that I have replaced much of the finishing kit over the past year. Odi grips provide additional comfort,  and the carbon bars provided a better feel up front that stopped pesky trail-vibrations.

-Nukeproof Saddle - This may be me being a 100 kilo ape, but I bent the saddle irreparably within a couple of rides. Fortunately, an SDG replacement has provided me with no further issues.

Overall it's a brilliant bike that I would happily recommend to anyone - I have no intention of parting with mine in the foreseeable future. Although Nukeproof radically changed their frame design for 2016 (meaning these older shapes lose some value) it is undeniably superior to my riding capabilities. It's fast when the course gets rough, admirably agile, and not too bad on the uphill sections either.